Before this trip, Emilia-Romagna—to me—was Lambrusco country. Delicious, playful, versatile… yes. But this region held so much more than I ever imagined. It took a single day with the Rametta brothers at Poggio della Dogana to completely redefine my understanding of Romagna wines, the land, and the passionate people who bring its magic to life.

A Vineyard Rooted in History—and a Landscape That Feels Alive: Perched between the hills of Castrocaro Terme–Terra del Sole and Brisighella, Poggio della Dogana sits on terrain that once marked the border between the Pontifical States and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Today, these gently rolling hills—20 hectares of vines—form a natural amphitheater for one of Italy’s most exciting new wine stories.

What makes this terroir unforgettable is its dual personality:

  • Castrocaro’s brown and ochre clays, rich in bromine, sulfur, and calcium

  • The Adriatic sea breeze, sweeping inland from just a few dozen kilometers away

  • Brisighella’s calcareous soils, imparting minerality, structure, and unmistakable sapidity

Each shift in soil, each breeze, and each sloping vineyard row seemed to echo the estate’s motto:
“A passion that takes roots.” And that passion is palpable in their wines, their people, and the hospitality that truly swept us off our feet.

One of the great joys of Italian culinary culture is that food and wine are never separate—they are threads woven into the same tapestry. Our visit included something I have dreamed about for years: a pasta-making class in Italy. Enter Erica Liverani, Season 5 winner of Master Chef Italy, whose warmth, precision, and incredible teaching style made this moment unforgettable.

We rolled, shaped, and folded handmade cappelletti—those charming ring-shaped pasta parcels—filling them with a savory blend of cheese and fresh herbs. To finish: a rich, slow-simmered Bolognese that clung lovingly to each piece of pasta. Heaven.

Sitting at the long farmhouse table, eating the pasta we made with our own hands, sipping Poggio della Dogana wines, and chatting with Erica… it was everything I’d hoped for. And yes—I was significantly better at shaping cappelletti than I expected. (Thank you, Erica.) Every unforgettable winery has unforgettable people—and Poggio della Dogana is no exception.

Paola Antonello: The Next Generation of Italian Oenology

Meeting Paola Antonello was a highlight. Born in Romagna in 1995, Paola carries the combined heritage of Tuscany and Veneto, along with a résumé that spans Spain, New Zealand, the U.S., Australia, and Chile.

She is a woman whose senses have been shaped by the world, yet her heart brought her home.

Her philosophy on winemaking stayed with me:
“Wine teaches you respect and patience: you have no power over times and characteristics, it is nature that takes care of this magic. Man can only give voice to the message contained in every single grape.”

At Poggio della Dogana, she oversees hospitality and the wine shop—welcoming wine lovers with both warmth and profound knowledge.

The Rametta brothers have created a portfolio that embodies the spirit of Romagna’s terroir—structured, expressive, and deeply rooted in place. This tasting showed me just how nuanced Romagna Sangiovese can be. Each wine offered a different lens through which to view the land, and each paired beautifully with the cappelletti we had just made.

Santa Reparata:  Romagna Sangiovese DOC – Castrocaro & Terra del Sole
An organic Sangiovese grown in the “le Volture” locality at 180m elevation from 25-year-old Romagna clones, trained in Guyot. Santa Reparata is elegant yet powerful, with a linear structure that reflects Castrocaro’s clay-rich soils. It offered a beautiful contrast to the richness of the Bolognese sauce and sang alongside the herbal notes of the filling.

Arlesiana: Romagna Sangiovese DOC – Brisighella
Produced in Pideura from vines 20+ years old, grown between 250–300m in altitude.
Here the calcareous soils shine, giving this Sangiovese a lifted minerality and a savory edge. It was a standout expression—romantic, refined, and undeniably Brisighella.

Poggiogirato – Riserva: Romagna Sangiovese DOC Superiore Riserva
An organic wine from 15-year-old vineyards in Castrocaro’s “le Volture” at 210m elevation.
This Riserva brings depth, concentration, and a slow-unfolding complexity. Its structure, spice, and elegance made it a dream with the cappelletti—its tannins wrapping around each bite in the most harmonious way.

Together, these three wines showcased the full emotional range of Romagna Sangiovese—from clay to limestone, from altitude shifts to clone variations, from power to finesse.

And of course…

Vindice: The Sparkling Stunner: A Metodo Classico Blanc de Noir pas dosé Millesimato made from 100% Sangiovese, grown in both Castrocaro Terme and Brisighella. Bone dry, mineral-driven, and unforgettable—it is the wine that stole my heart twice.

Belladama: The Albana That Took My Breath Away

Belladama di Poggio della Dogana is a dry Romagna Albana Secco DOCG produced from 100% Albana grapes grown in 20-year-old vineyards across Castrocaro Terme and Brisighella at 210m altitude. This wine is: luminous, textured, aromatic, and absolutely stunning. Albana deserves far more global recognition, and Belladama is the kind of bottle that could convert anyone.

Dulcinea, Beldemonio & A Sweet Finale to Come…

We also tasted:

  • Dulcinea, an Albana from overripe grapes—rich, golden, and charming

  • Beldemonio, a Sangiovese-based vermouth produced only in the hottest years. Yes I went home with a bottle!

And yes… they do have a sweet wine worth writing home about. But that story belongs to our final dinner with the Rametta brothers, an evening so magical it deserves its own article—coming soon!

From the breathtaking views and soulful wines
to the pasta class of my dreams
to the passionate people crafting a new chapter for Romagna…

Poggio della Dogana is a place that shifts your perspective.

I went in knowing Emilia-Romagna through the lens of Lambrusco.
I left knowing a region layered with history, innovation, and extraordinary potential.

The Rametta brothers don’t just make wine—they curate experiences, build community, and showcase a Romagna that deserves the world’s attention.

This day was a highlight of my trip… but then again, when the hospitality is this heartfelt and the wines are this compelling, how could it not be?

To the team at Poggio della Dogana: thank you for opening your home, your vineyards, and your hearts. I cannot wait to return—and next time, I’m making twice as many cappelletti. Thank you also to the “Taste the Difference: Quality wines from the heart of Europe, a program co-funded by the European Union, who brought us on this amazing trip!