There’s something magnetic about the Modigliana hills — the way light moves over the valleys, the air hums with quiet energy, and the vines seem to breathe history. In this serene pocket of Emilia-Romagna, where Tuscany’s edge meets Romagna’s soul, Aldo and Paolo Rametta are shaping a new future for Italian wine — not by changing tradition, but by restoring it with purpose, respect, and heart.

Their journey began in 2016 with Poggio della Dogana, and expanded in 2020 when they acquired the legendary Ronchi di Castelluccio — a once-iconic estate from the 1970s now reborn under their care. Drawing from their entrepreneurial background in renewable energy, the brothers approached winemaking as stewards of both land and legacy.

With Francesco Bordini leading the viticulture, they’ve revived historic vineyards, honored forgotten parcels, and celebrated each ronco — or terraced plot — for its distinct character. The result is a collection of expressive, soulful wines that capture the raw elegance of these wild, rolling landscapes.

Our visit unfolded under the warm guidance of Fabio Castellucci, the estate’s Sommelier and Commercial Director — a man whose presence instantly set the tone for the day. Born in Santa Sofia, Fabio’s roots in Romagna run deep. After 15 years as a restaurateur, he followed his passion for wine, earning his Professional Sommelier Diploma, later honing his craft in England with Old Food Market and the renowned sommelier Andrea Rinaldi.

Since returning home in 2020, Fabio has been both the voice and ambassador of Ronchi di Castelluccio, representing the estate across Italy and abroad, and translating the Rametta brothers’ vision with warmth, clarity, and expertise.

Throughout the day, Fabio poured each wine with intention, while the brothers sharing stories of the land, the vintages, and the personalities behind every bottle.

Tasting the Hills: A Journey Through the Ronchi

The tasting began in the golden light of late afternoon. Beyond the terrace, the Apennines stretched endlessly, and a small herd of alpacas grazed peacefully — an unexpected but endearing sight that mirrored the tranquility of the place.

Sottovento — Sauvignon Blanc (1989 Vines)

Sottovento Label

We opened with Sottovento, a Sauvignon Blanc that captures the full spirit of Modigliana. From vines planted in 1989, this wine embodies the freshness of mountain air and the grace of sea breezes. The label, painted in soft watercolor strokes, reflects the wine’s own elegance — lively, saline, and textured, with notes of lemon verbena, white peach, and wet stone.

It paired beautifully with the opening dish at our dinner: a fresh beef tartare whose delicate texture and purity of flavor met the wine’s bright fruit and zesty acidity in perfect harmony. The next course — a tender veal in tuna sauce (Vitello Tonnato) — extended that balance, the creamy richness lifted effortlessly by the crisp, Sauvignon. Truly, a match made in heaven.

I first discovered this wine during a virtual tasting years ago and was thrilled to revisit it here, surrounded by the very hills that shaped it. I even still have an older vintage in my cellar — and can’t wait to compare the two side by side.

Ronco della Simia Label

Ronco del Re — Sauvignon Blanc (Flagship Wine)

Then came the estate’s crown jewel: Ronco del Re. From 50-year-old vines planted on a narrow strip of land overlooking the Lamone Valley at 370 meters altitude, this Sauvignon Blanc is pure poetry. Only 833 bottles are produced each year, making it both rare and remarkable.

The wine’s energy and depth speak to its terroir — wild herbs, sun-ripened citrus, and subtle tropical tones balanced by bright minerality. It shone alongside the first courses, reinforcing how naturally these whites complement both raw and delicate cooked meats.

Ronco Casone — Sangiovese with Rustic Charm

The transition to reds began with Ronco Casone, a Sangiovese that captures the grape’s rustic beauty and soul. Its vineyard lies along a cypress-lined avenue leading to Modigliana, facing northwest, and once considered too cool, but now thriving thanks to a shifting climate. The result is stunning: deep red fruit, hints of forest herbs, and a delicate minerality that lingers gracefully.

Ronco del Re Label

Ronco della Simia — Distinctive and Savory

Then came Ronco della Simia, a Sangiovese of bold character — meaty, earthy, and irresistibly wild. As a sommelier for a butcher, I couldn’t help but smile; this wine practically begged for game meats. Only 2500 bottles are produced, and the label — inspired by 16th-century naturalist Ulisse Aldrovandi’s drawings — celebrates nature in its rawest form.

Ronco dei Ciliegi — The Sangiovese Cru of the Cherry Trees

The Ronco dei Ciliegi is where history and heart intertwine. Named for the two cherry trees that frame the vineyard, this Sangiovese cru has been lovingly restored — the old methods revived and missing vines replaced using historic ecotypes rediscovered from the notes of Remigio Bordini, now carried on by his son Francesco.

The label, redesigned in Renaissance red, preserves the artistry of Tano dal Monte, a nod to the winery’s heritage. In the glass, the wine dances with red cherry, dried rose, and savory spice — elegant, layered, and timeless.

Buco del Prete Label

Buco del Prete — The Symbol of Revival

To conclude, we tasted Buco del Prete, the modern emblem of the estate’s revival — a Sangiovese cru that embodies strength, precision, and pride. Rich and structured yet balanced, it reflects both the power of the terroir and the brothers’ clear sense of direction for the future.

Dinner unfolded as the sun slipped behind the ridgelines, casting a soft violet glow over the vineyards. After the tartare and veal courses came a feast of grilled meats — a selection of fresh pork, lamb, and beef — accompanied by perfectly charred seasonal vegetables.

Each bite told a story. The meats mirrored the depth of the Sangiovese-driven reds, their smoky intensity playing against the wines’ bright cherry fruit and earthy backbone. The vegetables, kissed by flame, echoed the heart of the terroir itself — rustic, honest, and full of life.

Between courses, Fabio and the brothers poured, explained, and laughed alongside us — their passion palpable in every story and every glass. Beyond the terrace, the alpacas settled into the twilight as conversation carried well into the night. It wasn’t just a tasting. It was a glimpse into a way of life,  one rooted in respect for the land, the joy of good company, and the belief that great wine is meant to be shared.

The Rametta brothers’ journey at Ronchi di Castelluccio and Poggio della Dogana is redefining what Emilia-Romagna means to the world of wine. Their dedication to sustainability, artistry, and authenticity is not only preserving heritage — it’s igniting a renaissance.

Each wine tells a story: of sun and soil, of families and friendships, of a region quietly stepping into the spotlight. And thanks to their passionate team — from Aldo and Paolo to Francesco and Fabio — the hills of Modigliana are once again alive with possibility.

Special thanks to Aldo and Paolo Rametta, Fabio & The Team, and Taste the Difference: Quality Wines from the Heart of Europe, a program co-funded by the European Union, for an unforgettable day filled with inspiration, flavor, and connection.