After a few golden, soul-filling days immersed in the olive harvest, I couldn’t leave Umbria without shining a little light on one of my favorite winemakers — and one of the kindest families I know — Cantina Madrevite.

Nestled between Lago Trasimeno and Lago di Chiusi, in the gentle hills of Castiglione del Lago, this is a place where land, family, and legacy converge. Here, Nicola continues the story his grandfather began, preserving the wisdom of the past while crafting wines that speak to the soul of modern Umbria.

Madrevite’s story begins in 1978, when Nicola’s grandfather Zino first planted vines on these rolling hills. By 2003, Nicola decided to restore the family vineyards, replanting part of those original plots and breathing new life into the land.

As Nicola often says,

“My cultural roots are riveted to the land. I have always been a winegrower. My family’s tradition tells a timeless story of wisdom, collaboration, and trust — because the harvest doesn’t always come up to expectations, and the farmer knows that.”

That honesty defines Madrevite. Every vine, every barrel, every bottle reflects a deep partnership between man and nature — and a respect for the unpredictability that makes wine so magical. Today, the estate sits in within the Trasimeno DOC, overlooking endless stretches of olive trees, cypress, and shimmering water. The view alone feels like a love song to Umbria. I arrived at Lago Trasimeno in the late afternoon, the lake glistening like liquid glass under the fading sun. The town of Castiglione del Lago buzzed with gentle life, cobblestone alleys, stone walls steeped in Roman history, and art that spills into every corner.

That evening, Nicola joined us for dinner — the perfect welcome to the region. We began with his Futura, a sparkling wine that instantly lifted the mood. Fresh, lively, and full of lake breeze energy, it was the perfect aperitivo as the first plates arrived.

The menu was inspired by the lake itself:

Lake Fish Sampler — a delicate selection of local catches paired beautifully with Il Reminore and Elvé, two white wines that capture Umbria’s tranquil brightness.

  • Il Reminore (Grechetto) was round, fragrant, and elegant, a whisper of peach and almond against the lake’s salinity. I fell in love with this grape while in Umbria and have a whole new appreciation for it.

  • Elvé (Trebbiano Spoletino) was leaner, mineral, and electric — the yin to its yang.

Then came truffle pasta — because when in Umbria in autumn, it’s non-negotiable. With it, I poured a glass of the Rosé because this is a wine from Madrevite I truly can not resist! Then came the Opra, one of my favorite reds from Madrevite. Medium-bodied, juicy, and silky, Opera’s Sangiovese base, blended with a touch of Gamay del Trasimeno, is the definition of comfort wine. It wrapped around the truffle like velvet.

Every dish carried a drizzle of Madrevite’s extra virgin olive oil, peppery and fresh from the press. I couldn’t help myself — it went on everything.

Day Two: From Vines to Vision

The next morning, we met at the winery — a bright, modern space perched above the vineyards, where fermentations hum quietly in steel tanks and concrete barrels age the wines in silence.

Nicola guided us through the olive groves first (my happy place), explaining how they’ve worked for decades to increase biodiversity, eliminate chemicals, and let nature regulate itself. Then we moved into the vineyards, where he’s reviving old Gamay del Trasimeno vines, a variety once nearly forgotten, and even bringing back a small plot of Barbera, his grandfather’s passion project.

Inside the cellar, spontaneous fermentation reigns. No commercial yeasts, no shortcuts — just patience, clean fruit, and intuition. “Nature already knows what to do,” Nicola said, smiling, as we tasted straight from tank.

Lunch unfolded like a master class in evolution. We began with a vintage comparison of his whites and rosés — tasting through bottles spanning more than seven years. It was fascinating to watch the colors deepen to amber and salmon, the aromas shifting from citrus and herbs to honey and dried fruit.

While these wines are best enjoyed young, this side-by-side glimpse into their aging potential showed just how much soul lives in these hills.

La Bisbetica Rosé (Gamay del Trasimeno)
Bright, vibrant, and wildly drinkable, this rosé is my personal favorite. It’s summer in a bottle — juicy strawberry, saline finish — yet complex enough to hold up to richer fare. I call it a porch-pounder with a passport.

Opra ( Gamay del Trasimeno)
An easy-to-love red that bridges Umbrian rusticity and finesse. Cherry, forest spice, and soft tannins make it a go-to with pasta, grilled meats, or honestly… truffle anything.

C’Osa (Gamay del Trasimeno)
Deeper and darker than Opera, C’Osa has backbone — wild berries, smoke, a bit of cocoa — yet stays wonderfully fresh. It’s the “evening by the fire” wine.

After our tasting, we gathered for lunch overlooking the vines. A comforting homemade lasagna arrived, layered with béchamel and perfectly al dente pasta. The new vintages, bright, energetic, and full of life, sang with it. And yes, more olive oil found its way onto my plate. Some habits are simply delicious.

That night, before heading to Tuscany, we met Nicola once more, for a casual farewell dinner by the lake. The atmosphere was relaxed and joyful: local pizzas, more lake fish, a few glasses of Glanio, and laughter that carried well past sunset.

The evening glowed in true Madrevite fashion — genuine, soulful, and full of warmth. The city lights reflected off the water, and I couldn’t help but think how fitting it was to end my Umbrian stay here: with family, friends, and a bottle that tells the story of the land.

Nicola is He’s nurturing continuity, proving that Umbria’s future lies in its roots. His wines are thoughtful, expressive, and alive with the spirit of the lake and its people. From his crisp whites to the joyful rosé and the comforting reds, every bottle feels like home, not polished perfection, but honest, heartfelt expression.

Two days here reminded me why I love Italian wine so deeply: because it’s never just about the glass. It’s about the people who pour their hearts into it, the land that gives it life, and those unforgettable meals that bring it all together.

Special thanks to Nicola of Madrevite and his family, and to Taste the Difference: Quality Wines from the Heart of Europe, a program co-funded by the European Union, for an unforgettable experience filled with inspiration, flavor, and connection.